The six strip 3D snowflake, printed as a template rather than described. The first sheet holds six identical strips with their points, their slits and a small cross where the staple goes. The second sheet shows the finished shape with the loops marked and takes you through the five joins.
The two sheets
Sheet one is the cutting sheet: six strips running down the page, each with points cut into both ends and straight slits running in from the notches. Every line on it is a cut. The small cross halfway down each strip marks the centre, which is where all six are stapled together.
Sheet two is the instructions. A diagram of the assembled snowflake shows which fingers loop over to the next arm and which stay straight, and five numbered steps take you from stacking the strips to hanging the finished shape. Three further notes cover paper weight, stapling and the order to work round in.
Three points or five
The control above the paper sets how many points are cut into each end of a strip. Three is the default and is the version most people recognise: an inner finger that stays straight and an outer one on each side that loops over. Five cuts more fingers into each end and gives a denser, more ornate snowflake at the cost of a lot more cutting.
Start with three. A single 3D snowflake is already twelve joins, and five points doubles the fiddly work before you know whether you like the result.
Getting it to hold its shape
Paper weight is the thing that decides whether this works. Around 120gsm is right: it holds a loop without springing open and it still bends. Ordinary printer paper goes floppy and the loops collapse, and 160gsm card will not bend far enough to make the join.
A long reach stapler through the centre is much easier than a desk stapler, because the strips have to be stacked and pinned at their midpoint. A split pin through the crosses or a strong dab of glue does the same job.
Make one join, then the join directly opposite it, then fill in between. Working round in order pulls the snowflake out of true, and by the last join the arms are uneven.
Questions
- How many strips does a 3D snowflake need?
- Six. They are printed on the first sheet, all identical, each with the points and slits marked and a cross at the centre showing where the staple or split pin goes.
- What paper should I use for a 3D snowflake?
- About 120gsm. Printer paper at 80gsm is too floppy and the loops will not hold, while 160gsm card is too stiff to bend into the loop without creasing.
- Do I need a special stapler?
- A long reach stapler makes the centre join much easier, but it is not the only way. A split pin pushed through the crosses or a dab of strong glue between the stacked strips both hold it well enough.
- How many joins are there?
- Twelve. Each of the six strips has two ends, and the outside finger on one arm is joined to the outside finger of the next arm all the way round. The inner fingers are left straight.
- Can I make the snowflake more detailed?
- Yes. Switch the points control from 3 to 5 and each strip end is cut into five fingers instead of three, which gives a fuller snowflake but a lot more cutting and joining.